Let me guess... The driver and/or passenger power window in your
Jeep Cherokee just made a snapping or grinding noise, and
although you can hear the window motor humming, it no longer
works, you can move the glass up and down by hand, and the glass
wants to fall down into the door?
If so, then please allow me to be the first to welcome you to the club!
The Problem
The front power windows in the 1997-2001 Jeep Cherokee are notorious
for breaking in this manner. The problem is the
design of the mechanism used to move the window.
There is a bracket which is connected to the window, and it rides
up and down in a track inside the door. There is a plastic/nylon piece
attached to the bracket which serves as both a guide and also a means
to connect the window motor to the bracket via a spiral wrapped
cable (the "fuzzy cable") which acts similar to a worm drive. The bracket itself is
constructed of 16 gauge stamped steel, it is attached to the window
using two steel bolts, and the plastic piece is attached to the bracket
using no less than 6 large steel rivets. So far, so good. However, the
part that ties all of this together and bears the entire weight of
the window is a small piece of plastic, no more than five hundredths
of an inch thick! It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out where
the point of failure is going to be!
(The window and bracket weigh
in at just under six and a quarter pounds, and the "felt weight" is
bound to be higher than that due to the friction from the track, the
window rubbing against the felt and seal, etc. Of course, this is
under perfect conditions. With some dirt or ice on the window, the
pressures could be considerably higher. The window motor is capable
of exerting more than 50 pounds of force, so if your window stops due
to ice, jamming, or simply reaching the top or bottom of the track,
this is the amount of force being transferred through the
bracket!)
This is what the stock bracket looks like.
The arrow is pointing to the plastic piece which connects the bracket to the power window motor mechanism.
And here is what the bracket looks like when that piece breaks off.
Using a questionable design as described above is bad enough, but to
add insult to injury, the only option provided by Jeep to
fix the problem is to replace the entire window regulator -
guide rail, bracket, window motor and everything, most of which is
perfectly functional! The problem is
a broken piece of plastic which probably costs a few cents
to produce, and the solution is to replace the entire regulator
at a MSRP of $235? (Depending on the dealership, you may be able
to get it for less, $120-180 or so.) There is something very wrong with
this picture.
The replacement regulators now use a
metal piece instead of plastic, which is a plus, but this isn't
a whole lot of help to you unless you feel like forking out
that kind of cash. Another option is eBay; I have seen
used regulators going for around $85-140,
and new regulators for
$150-175. Of course, a used eBay regulator
is almost certain to be of the original flimsy plastic design,
the same as what just broke in your vehicle. How long it will
will last is anybody's guess.
My Solution
I am far too cheap to spend that kind of money to replace a
mechanism which still has the vast majority of its parts in perfect
working order. Besides, its the principle of the thing - breaking a
tiny
piece of plastic should not mean that an entire $200 mechanical assembly is now
junk! In my opinion, a better solution would be
to simply replace the part that is actually broken, and that is
exactly what this repair kit allows you to do.
The
main component of the kit is a repair bracket that bolts to the stock window bracket and
replaces the broken portion of the plastic piece. Essentially, it
is a powdercoated steel bracket which the stock spiral cable can screw into. In order to install it, the
regulator assembly is removed from the vehicle, two rivets are
drilled out, and the broken portion of the plastic piece is
cut off, which can be done with a utility knife. The replacement bracket is bolted into place (using the hardware included in the kit) which allows the cable to be
inserted into it, same as stock.
For more detailed installation
information, please refer to the install instructions. These
instructions are provided with the kit, and are also available on-line (see link below).
I stand behind my product and I want you to be happy with your
purchase.
Each kit is warranted to the original purchaser to be free from
defects in materials and workmanship for as long as you own the kit.
I am very careful during the manufacturing process and quality control
inspection to weed out anything that could potentially cause a problem
down the road. However, as is the case with any mechanical item, there
is always a chance for failure no matter how controlled the
manufacturing process may be. As such, should this repair kit break or
prove unsatisfactory to you, please contact me and I will be happy to
replace it or refund your purchase price. (In the event of a warranty
claim, you will be responsible for the postage cost to mail the kit
back to me, but I will cover the cost of shipping the replacement to
you.)
Applications
This repair kit is for the 1997-2001 4-door Jeep Cherokee (the "classic" version, not the
Grand Cherokee, which uses a completely different window mechanism.
If you need a repair kit for your Grand Cherokee, a company by the
name of Digital Tuning, Inc. makes one, you can check them out here.)
This kit is ambidextrous; it will work on either of the front doors, so there is no
need for a specific "left" or "right" version.
Following is some info which is applicable to 2-door Cherokees only (if you
have a 4-door, you can ignore this paragraph): This kit was designed for the 4-door Cherokee. If you have a 2-door
which has broken, this kit might work for you also. The 2-door has two regulator attachment points as
compared to just one for the 4-door version. This repair kit is a
basic bolt-on to fix one of those attachment points, and might be able
to be used to fix the other attachment point, but that would require
some fabrication. (So, whether this kit will work for you as-is
depends on which of the two attachment points has broken in your
2-door.) For further information about this, please click here.
Related Tech Tip
The type of breakage which this repair kit is intended to fix is very
common on the 1997-2001 Jeep Cherokees. There is also another type of
failure which is quite common on these vehicles. What will happen with
this other failure is that sometimes when you operate the window
switch, the window won't move, and there will be a grinding or
clicking sound coming from the door. Usually this happens when the
window is in the full up or full down position. (For example, when
using the auto down feature, when the window gets to the bottom, the
motor might continue to run and grind instead of the switch popping
back to the off position.) If this is what is happening on your
Cherokee, and the window is still going up and down with the window
switch (the glass hasn't fallen down into the door and you can't move
it up and down by hand) then the plastic piece in your regulator
hasn't broken, and my repair kit will not help you. However, here is a
tip that you can use to fix your window for free.
Basically what is happening for this second type of failure is that
the spiral cable inside of the window regulator has been worn down by
the gear in the motor housing. (Sometimes the gear itself will also
become worn, but usually it is just the cable itself.) This almost
always happens at the full up and/or full down positions. What you can
do is to dissasemble the regulator, pull the spiral cable out, flip it
around and re-install it, "backwards", then reassemble the regulator.
(Feel free to refer to the
PDF
installation instructions
for my repair
kit. Although the instructions are obviously geared towards installing
my repair kit, they also show how to remove the regulator from the
door and dissasemble it, so they may be useful to you.) Flipping the
cable around like this causes a fresh section of the cable to be
aligned with the motor gear while at the full up and full down
positions. Almost always, this will solve the problem. However, in
extreme cases, the gear itself might be worn down, or perhaps you will
get to a point where flipping the cable around won't help because both
ends are worn. In this case, what you can try is to "slot" the holes
in the plastic portion of the motor housing such that when you
assemble the motor housing, you can push the gear closer to the cable.
Eventually, it may get to the point where you have used up all of the
adjustment, in which case you are probably looking at purchasing a new
regulator, or possibly scavenging a new spiral cable from a junkyard,
but these tips usually do work, and should give you some more years of
service if your regulator has failed in this manner.
Just to clarify, this tech tip that I have described has nothing to do
with the plastic piece which breaks inside the regulator; my repair
kit is not designed to fix this "stripped spiral cable" problem, I
simply include this information here because this problem is also
common on these vehicles, and I thought it might be helpful to someone
who stumbles across this product listing while searching for a solution
to their Cherokee's window problem. If you have any questions, please
feel free to contact me.
Note: The SP12001 kit will repair one window (either the left front or
the right front). The SP12002 kit is exactly the same except it comes
with a pair of brackets and the necessary hardware to be able to fix
both front windows, instead of just one.